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Sean Barker

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Blog Entries posted by Sean Barker

  1. Sean Barker
    Biharnagybajom (H) to Sarkad (H)

    Another frustrating day, inasmuch as I made my way to the road on my GPS route only to find that it was also closed to bicycles. There was nothing for it but to retrace my steps some 16km in the stifling heat that was now up to 35c in search of another route.
    Through the back roads and cratered lanes I made my way through “Zsaka”, “Furta”, “Komadi”, “Zsadany” and on to “Sarkad”
    I must admit to feeling somewhat apprehensive about entering Romania after hearing some of the things people have had to say to me today. But what the Hell I’m not one for quitting.
  2. Sean Barker
    Hook Of Holland to Zennet (Ned)

    After an uneventful journey to the start at the Hook I made my way east circumnavigating Rotterdam and passing through the beautiful Kinderdijk with its multitude of windmills.
    I felt quite emotional cycling this stretch as I covered the ground that I had cycled with my daughter when we did a tour of the Netherlands together some seven years before.
    Following the river Lek it soon became apparent that my GPS was not picking up the satellites and consequently the roads and measuring distance properly which was a concern considering some of the remote places I was to cover on this tour. Fortunately I had my trusty compass and maps of the Netherlands and Germany; clearly I was going to have to pick maps up along the way.

    I did feel strange being back on the road again, cycling on the right, it somehow felt as if I was home again


    The ferry across to the Kinderdijk



    The stunning Kinderdijk, perhaps my favourite place in the Netherlands


    Another of the Kinderdijk
  3. Sean Barker
    Ilmenau (D) to Bad Lobenstien (D)

    The torrential rain forecast didn't materialise but it was overcast and showers all day with the showers getting heavier and more prolonged later into the day.
    Today was tough going on the bicycle paths, the recent rains had left them deep mud in parts and in no way suitable for a loaded touring bike, they were really only mountain bike paths at the best of times. After getting stuck one too many times and having to push my bike through ankle deep mud. I decided to go off route in search of a better surface.
    My new route saw me passing through "Saafeld" and staying on the "90" to "Bad Lobenstien"
    I think this bad weather system is coming from the east so by riding into it hopefully I'll come out the other side all the sooner.
    One big positive today is that I managed to buy a new compass in "Saafeld"




    The many kilometres of cycle paths that run through the forests of Germany
  4. Sean Barker
    Galgaguta (H) to Tiszasuly (H)

    A rain free day! Only my second one so far but it felt so good to be out of the rain gear and feel the sun on my back.
    I left "Galgaguta" and made my way through “Acsa”, “Erdokurt”, “Kallo”, “Versea”, “Hatvan”, “Jaszbereny” and on to “Tiszasuly”
    The minor roads here in Hungary are appalling, they actually look like they have been bombed at times. I just hope my bike holds out.
    It feels strange navigating with my GPS alone, as without maps I’m not quite sure where in the country I am.
  5. Sean Barker
    Walterhausen (D) to Ilmenau (D)

    It rained hard during the night and into the morning. It was 11:30am before I packed up a soaking wet tent and braved the weather. After a few hours of cycling through the cold storm shivering and miserable, I happened upon a small village just south of Ilmenau and spied a pension. With no chance of getting my tent dry today I saw this as the ideal opportunity to get everything dry, wash my dirty clothes and charge all my appliances. As I write this my tent is hanging over the bathroom door and all my clothes are drying on the radiator and all devices are recharging.
    I'll get breakfast here in the morning and then ride through the rain all day comforted in the knowledge that everything is packed away dry.
  6. Sean Barker
    Demandice (SL) to Galgaguta (H)

    Gone was the heavy rain of yesterday, just showers and a light constant drizzle.
    Because of the rain this morning and the quiet secluded spot I found to camp in, I didn't set off until 11:00am.
    I really struggled today in the damp, warm and muggy conditions. I followed the GPS route but was never really sure where I was but it was uplifting to cross the border into Hungary



    Crossing into Hungary
  7. Sean Barker
    Stribro (CZ) to Lnare (CZ)

    Maybe Freud was right "The Irish are beyond psychoanalysis"
    But the question remains “Why do I do this to myself?” Perhaps it’s my guilty past and some messed up belief that the only path to redemption is purification through pain. My catholic upbringing at the hands of Jesuit priests and Christian brothers has a lot to answer for!
    Whatever here I am again living in my self-imposed hell!
    These are dark days and these are the times that will test me. I have to stay strong and focused now. I know that better days lie ahead I have to hold on to that.
    Today was a frustrating day. I got completely lost trying to get out of “Pizen”and actually ended up on a mountain bike path with narrow paths and sheer drops to the side. After a 25km circle of hard going terrain I finally ended back where I started in “Pizen”
    However I met with a couple of local mountain bikers who were amazed that I had got around the loop on my loaded touring bike. When I explained that it was not by design and that I was lost, they kindly escorted me some 10km out of their way to put me on the right route again.
    Despite the threat of heavy rain today only saw light showers.
    Today was a long day in the saddle but relatively little progress to show for it. On the upside however I got a good map that will guide me over the next week or so.
  8. Sean Barker
    Kunzac (CZ) to Staats (Aus)

    Fed, dry and rested I headed out into the rain under dark foreboding skies.
    I cycled hard all day stopping only once for twenty minutes under a children’s play shelter to cook some hot food.
    Over every hill I hoped to see clear skies but twas never to be.
    I made my way through “Decice”, and “Jemince”. Then stayed on the 408 all the way to “Hevlin” before crossing the border into Austria and into the border town of “Laa an der Thaya”.
    I then cycled into “Staatz” dominated by a castle ruins atop a hill. Just a kilometre further on but in sight of the castle I pitched my tent beside a hedgerow before the thunder and lightning both roared and lit up the sky above me.
    Surely this weather has to change!



    Crossing into Austria


    Making camp within sight of the ruins of an Austrian castle
  9. Sean Barker
    Karnobat (Bul) to Marinka (Bul)

    I decided to get off the busy road I was on in search of quieter roads heading due south but that turned out to be a mistake as I got totally lost and ended up getting sucked into “Burgos” anyway. I had cycled over 100km to get to 50km from where I started.
    But to add injury to insult my GPS packed up so I had to ask for directions and was given a bum steer in “Burgos” and travelled in a 60km circular route that brought me right back to “Burgos” again.
    I’m pretty knackered right now but at least I’m on the right road, even if I am not much closer than I was this morning.



    The mountainous lands where Bulgaria meets Turkey
  10. Sean Barker
    Havsa (Tur) to Ormenio (Gr)

    After cycling through “Edirne” I made for the quieter crossing just beyond “Karaagac”.
    This was a tense border. I wasn’t allowed to take photos but the army on both sides patrolled it fully armed and watched each other intently from behind sandbags and the sights of their automatic guns.
    These two old adversaries may now be at peace but it was abundantly obvious that trust was still in short supply.
    This was the first time I had to empty my panniers and be thoroughly checked at a border crossing. When asked by the guard where I had started my bike ride and where I was going, he had difficulty believing anyone would or could do it, so he was immediately suspicious of me.
    After a somewhat lengthy border crossing I made my way through “Kastanies”, “Kanades”, “Plati”, “Spilaio”, “Dikaia”, “Ptelea” and onto “Ormenio”.
    I felt really tired today, no doubt cycling yesterday in temperatures of well over 40c took its toll on my body. I was however lifted by cycling out of Turkey and crossing into Greece where I am now camped under a couple of trees hidden away as the storm clouds gather and the thunder rumbles.


    Crossing the border between Turkey and Greece
  11. Sean Barker
    Buyukgekmecie (Tur) to Istanbul (Tur)

    I cycled into the city on the hair-raising main road and searched for a bike shop to make some vital repairs.
    Unfortunately the only bike shop that serves touring cyclists that I can find is closed today (on Sunday). So I decided to find a cheap hotel and come back tomorrow. One way or another I have to get my bike sorted out as there is absolutely no chance of it making it home in its current state.
    It was nice to ramble around the Old Town in the cool of the evening. One thing is for certain, I’m coming back here again to explore this amazing city thoroughly

    Istanbul



    The Blue Mosque


    The Hagia Sophia
  12. Sean Barker
    Ormenio (GR) to Harmanli (Bul)

    Well I wasn't in Greece long before the route took me back into Bulgaria and its confusing signs.
    Another suspicious border check as the customs officer found my story of cycling to Istanbul and back hard to believe, at least this one wasn’t as thorough and time consuming as the last one.
    A nice thing happened out on the road today. As I was cycling down the 8 in Bulgaria a young man on a scooter with his girlfriend riding pillion signalled for me to pull in to the side of the road. I pulled in at the next widening of the road and he reached into his bag and gave me a freshly picked water melon from his collection. A few kilometres further on I came to an abandoned building where I pulled in and made short work of the large fruit.
    After crossing the border today I made my way onto the 8 and passed through “Lyubimets” before pushing on to “Harmanli” where just beyond I found a nice wood to make camp..
    The road I now find myself on is a narrow and busy road and quite stressful to cycle. It looks like this is going to be the case for a few days as there is no alternative.


    Crossing into Bulgaria
  13. Sean Barker
    Marinka (Bul) to Kirklareli (Tur)

    I really wasn’t confident where I camped last night and didn’t sleep well as a result. This left me tired on what was a tough stage.
    I got to the border and then pushed on to the nearest town. I was absolutely spent and filthy when I arrived in “Kirklareli” so sorted out accommodation, something I plan to do on all my stages in Turkey.
    I’m slightly off course now but am hopeful I find it again southeast tomorrow.

    Crossing into Turkey
  14. Sean Barker
    Marmaracik (Tur) to Havsa (Tur)

    Today was hot. Over 40c and boy does that sap your strength! On the upside this was a considerably easier stretch of road than the one I came in on, a nice wide hard shoulder gave me some breathing space from the fast moving traffic.
    I stayed on the D100 and passed through “Vakiflar”, “Luleburgaz”, “Babaeski” and on into “Havsa” Where I had had simply enough of oppressive heat.
    I think I am now within striking distance of Greece and should cross the border tomorrow.



    I spent a couple of weeks riding in temperatures of 45.46 degrees but this is the only sign I saw, be it late in the evening
  15. Sean Barker
    Silviri (Tur) to Marmaracik (Tur)

    Retracing my steps and trying to find a route along the coast and avoiding the busy and potentially lethal main road. I made my way through “Seymen” and on to “Corlu” before reaching “Marmaracik. The next town would be a further 30km away and after the slow progress of the earlier part of the day I decided to stop here, the plan being to rest up and make a big push tomorrow.
  16. Sean Barker
    Saray (Tur) to Buyukgekmece (Tur)

    Well after 33 days, 3,889.2km and 45,778 metres of climbing I am now on the outskirts of Istanbul

    Today was tough as the roads are busy and simply not safe to cycle on so I find myself for the most part cycling on the verve beside the road.
    I made my way through “Cerkezkoy”. “Celtic”, “Silviri”, “Selimpasa”, “Kumburgaz” and on to “Buyukgekmece”
    On one of the rougher sections of road today my right front rack, which was in a pretty bad state completely snapped as I hit a pot hole. I managed to reshape it and secure it with more string and duct tape but it is now virtually useless. Finding a new one in Istanbul as well as a new chain, cassette and new tires is now imperative

    I am now on the outskirts of Istanbul yet still some 60km from the centre. This city is utterly vast!
  17. Sean Barker
    Kirklareli (Tur) to Saray (Tur)

    Today was hot and I really felt it. Turkey is having a heatwave and it hit 45c out on the road today.
    The roads too are a concern, very busy with precious little room between me and the high speed traffic that whizzes by. Every time a truck comes up behind me they honk their horn and my only option is to pull in off the road. The constant stopping and starting is making progress slow and it’s only going to get worse as I close in on Istanbul.
    I stayed on the main road (my only choice) as I passed through “Vize” and into “Saray”. One good thing is the hotels are really cheap at around £15 a night with breakfast.
    I have made really good time on the way down here and I think I’ll reward myself now with taking it a little easier under this oppressive sun.
    I met a helpful Turk as I took a rest in the shade of a petrol station forecourt and he has advised me on a different route into Istanbul that I now intend to take.
  18. Sean Barker
    Wesel (D) to Overhausen (D)

    After a morning of light showers the hard rain came down with a vengeance in the afternoon as the skies darkened and I spent the day soaked through to the skin.
    I made my way through the rain and passed through a plethora of small villages and towns such as "Selm, "Werne and "Hamm" before eventually worn out I hurriedly erected my tent in the woods while being buffeted by the rain.
    It was to be an uneasy sleep both damp and cold
  19. Sean Barker
    Becice (CZ) to Kunzak (CZ)

    I was greatly relieved that my tent survived the storm last night and that a tree hadn't come down on me but I was soaked during the night. The rain was still coming down heavy when I awoke and no sign of it letting up. I knew I had to go out in it as I was out of food and with tomorrow being Sunday I had to stock up today.
    There was nothing for it, I had to move on. I tried to care for my feet as best I could. There were large chunks of dead white flesh coming off them and I was missing five toenails, I am genuinely concerned that I am getting trench foot, I cleaned them and bandaged them up before I packed up everything in the pouring rain and was in no doubt I couldn't get any wetter.
    Today was brutally tough, the rain never let up for a moment, I was cold and soaked through, my shoulder hurt my feet hurt and I really struggled to keep mentally right. My tent and sleeping bag were wet and my priority was to find accommodation if possible and dry everything out, as well as stocking up on food.
    I cycled through loads of little villages and the towns of " “Veseli nad Luznici”, and the sizable “Jindrichuv Hradec”. I continued east until I came to the village of “Kunzac” where I found a pension and some respite from this sufferance.

    The pension was owned and run by a delightful couple who were fascinated by what I had achieved and what I yet intended to do. They invited me to their private quarters to dine with them where we discussed my cycling tours before moving onto their true passion “Music” where we discussed our favourite works by D’vorak, Chopin and Mozart before amazingly moving onto Bluegrass where the owner played banjo in a local Bluegrass band.
    We continued to chat while they introduced me to one Czech beer after another and then a local spirit distilled from plums.
    I feel a little tipsy now as I write this account of the day but I think I’ll sleep well tonight.
  20. Sean Barker
    Sarkad (H) to Beius (ROM)

    Today was the hottest day yet at 38c. With no cloud cover, covering up was the order of the day. I wore the desert scarf which has turned out to be an inspired purchase.
    I made my way across the border and into the busy town of “Salonta” and then through “Tulca”, “Tinca”, “Soimi” and on to the busy town of “Beius” where on spotting a pension and the heat sapping my strength I decided to call it a day.
    The woman who ran the establishment asked where I’d cycled from and when I told her England she called out for all the staff to witness my tale. She later went on to tell me that they had never had a touring cyclist stay here before.
    This pension also runs a popular restaurant with a large stone oven where pizza’s are cooked to order. I enjoyed a large one and a couple of bottles of surprisingly good Romanian lager before heading to bed for an early night and a bed, something I hadn’t enjoyed since back in the Czech Republic which seemed so long ago.


    Desperately trying to protect myself from the oppressive sun in those early days
  21. Sean Barker
    God knows where (Bul) to Somewhere further Southeast (Bul)

    I really am cycling blind at this point. I’m just following my compass southeast until I either pick up my GPS route or hit the Black Sea.
    Bulgaria seems much the same as Southern Romania inasmuch as the people in every village I pass through cease what they are doing and are transfixed on me as I pass through or stop in their village. I rather suspect that cycling tourists are a rarity in these parts to put it mildly


    After suffering from a severe gastric bug for six days where I was left with diarrhoea and constantly vomiting in temperatures in the mid to high 30’s and despite consuming at least four and a half litres of water a day as well as two litres of fruit juice and assorted soft drinks and tea, I didn’t actually manage to urinate for three days (days 2, 3 & 4)
    Despite being in this pitiful state over the course of those six days I still managed to cycle over 720km
    I was quite pleased with that as it reassured me that I wasn’t quite as soft as I feared I was getting.
    I think this picture really captures the state I was in
  22. Sean Barker
    Corbini (ROM) to Izvoru (ROM)

    An altogether less inspiring day after the thrills of yesterday, but on the upside it was for the most part all down hill.
    I clearly have a bad gastric bug so the easier terrain was most welcome.
    I made my way along the same road until I came to the busy city of “Pitesti” whereupon I got totally disorientated and took the wrong road. On realizing I had been traveling in the wrong direction I tried to take the dirt roads to get back on track. Eventually I found my way back onto a main road (64) just outside the village of “Ionesti”. I made my south through “Zavideni”, “Dragasani”, and on into “Slatina” before getting back onto the minor roads through “Recea” and onto “Izvoru”.
    I am now well off the beaten track and in an area that could be potentially very dangerous. I had no choice but to make camp in the overgrown grounds of a ruined house. I can’t be seen from the road but I can hear the villagers as they pass by.
    I shall sleep lightly tonight.

    Dracula’s castle (or at least the castle that inspired Bram Stoker)

    Un-surfaced dirt roads made up a considerable percentage of my days down in southern Europe
  23. Sean Barker
    Cartisoara (ROM) to Corbeni (ROM)

    What an epic day!
    I awoke this morning feeling quite delicate, not sure if it was the home distilled alcohol last night or the fact I've been feeling a little under the weather with a slight tummy bug over the last couple of days but I was still excited about the stage to come.

    The climb could best be described as gruelling. I took around four hours to cycle the 30km to the top as the heat took its toll on my weakened body.

    I stopped occasionally to take photos and have a drink. It was on one of those early stops that two German men pulled over to see if I was OK, Thinking I was in trouble they felt compelled to pull over and come to my assistance. I reassured them I was fine and that I always looked this bad when temperatures were over 35c and I was cycling up a seemingly never ending mountain.
    We stopped and chatted about football for a while; they were both staunch Borussia Dortmund fans but had a keen interest in the English game.

    I headed off again but it was clear I wasn’t right, I was sweating profusely and feeling nauseous also I was going through my water faster than I had anticipated and was now concerned that I was going to run out before getting to the other side.

    At an altitude 1650m just as I passed the tree line I was forced to stop as I was getting quite unsteady on the bike. As I sat down in the shadow of a great boulder a car pulled over and an Israeli couple came over to see if I needed help. I told them that I was exhausted and was taking a rest. The lady was quite concerned about me and insisted I took a selection of fruits to eat on the climb. She asked if I had enough water and when I explained that I had water in my drinks bottles but it was now quite warm she bid her husband to go to the boot of their car where he returned with a two litre bottle of half frozen water. I drank deep and drained the bottle, she smiled and getting another insisting I fill my bottles.
    They told me that they were driving over the mountain to see the beautiful “Lake Vidrau” beyond and that they would look for me on their return. We bid each other adieu and I watched them vanish around the next hairpin bend as I continued my accent.

    Refreshed and feeling somewhat stronger I pushed on until I reached the summit. No sooner had I got there than I saw a cyclist coming towards me. We immediately made a bee line towards each other embraced in utter disbelief in seeing another cyclist. His name was Sylvain from France; we chatted for a while and told each other of our adventures. He was also a long distance solo cyclist enjoying the unique challenges that it brings, Once again he hugged me and said “Sean we are brothers from a very small family”.
    We said our goodbyes and descended the mountain in different directions.

    Some half way down the mountain I stopped to cook a meal and take a rest. While there the Israeli couple on their return trip pulled in and the lady in quite an emotional state told me how proud she was that I did it and how relieved she was to see me and how they had worried all day about me.
    In yet another gesture of kindness she gave me more food that they had bought for me in the town I would get to some hours later. I thanked them for their generosity and told them it was an act of kindness I would never forget. She hugged me and I shook his hand before heading in our different directions.
    I continued on past the beautiful “Lake Vidrau” before finding a pension under the shadow of Draculas castle in a quaint little village.



    The ascent but still with the much appreciated shade from the trees

    The sheer drops at the edge of the road, if you lose your line on this road you won’t live to tell the tale

    Landslides are a constant threat up here. There are signs every kilometre or so strongly advising you to be quiet.

    Above the tree line the sun really takes its toll on the cyclist but the views are spectacular

    You know it’s been a real climb when you get this white stuff on the higher ground

    And now for the downhill section on the other side, time for your hands to ache on the brakes instead on your legs on the pedals.

    A quick stop for another shot of this truly breath taking landscape

    OK maybe just one more


    Just taking in the stunning views


    The stunningly beautiful Lake Vidaru
  24. Sean Barker
    Lost (Bul) to Karnobat (Bul)

    I managed to pick up the GPS course today so am comforted in the knowledge that I am always traveling in the right direction.
    Today’s route took me over a torturous climb that was so steep keeping my front wheel on the ground was a challenge.
    I’m really shattered this evening but my stomach seems to be settling down at last.
    It was a late start today after heavy rain during the night which continued on late into the morning. I packed up a wet tent but in this heat it dried later in minutes when I stopped to cook up lunch.
    The road signs are now in both Cyrillic and Roman lettering so I can get a fix on where I am.
    I shall now head for Burgos on the coast of the Black Sea which is well signposted and move south from there. All being well I should hit Turkey the day after tomorrow.
  25. Sean Barker
    Beius (ROM) to Abrud (ROM)

    Today was the toughest stage so far but by far the most spectacular.
    I made my way from “Beius down the busy E79 to “Lunca” where I took the 75 and was soon to face my first real mountain climb of the tour. In a mere 20km I climbed 1000m but the descent was through some stunning countryside as I followed the course of the river through the ski resort of “Vartop” and some lovely villages such as “Izlaz”, “Arieseni”, “Raul Valcea” “Ursoaia”, “Vadu Motilor”, the thriving town of “Campeni” and on to “Abrud”. It was 35c at the bottom of the climb and only slightly cooler at the summit.
    As tough as today was I am fully aware that the big climbs are in a couple of days time.


    Making my way across the Transylvanian mountains


    The charming village or Vartop
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