Jump to content

Sean Barker

Administrators
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,914

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    123

 Content Type 

Blog Entries posted by Sean Barker

  1. Sean Barker
    Marinka (Bul) to Kirklareli (Tur)

    I really wasn’t confident where I camped last night and didn’t sleep well as a result. This left me tired on what was a tough stage.
    I got to the border and then pushed on to the nearest town. I was absolutely spent and filthy when I arrived in “Kirklareli” so sorted out accommodation, something I plan to do on all my stages in Turkey.
    I’m slightly off course now but am hopeful I find it again southeast tomorrow.

    Crossing into Turkey
  2. Sean Barker
    Corbini (ROM) to Izvoru (ROM)

    An altogether less inspiring day after the thrills of yesterday, but on the upside it was for the most part all down hill.
    I clearly have a bad gastric bug so the easier terrain was most welcome.
    I made my way along the same road until I came to the busy city of “Pitesti” whereupon I got totally disorientated and took the wrong road. On realizing I had been traveling in the wrong direction I tried to take the dirt roads to get back on track. Eventually I found my way back onto a main road (64) just outside the village of “Ionesti”. I made my south through “Zavideni”, “Dragasani”, and on into “Slatina” before getting back onto the minor roads through “Recea” and onto “Izvoru”.
    I am now well off the beaten track and in an area that could be potentially very dangerous. I had no choice but to make camp in the overgrown grounds of a ruined house. I can’t be seen from the road but I can hear the villagers as they pass by.
    I shall sleep lightly tonight.

    Dracula’s castle (or at least the castle that inspired Bram Stoker)

    Un-surfaced dirt roads made up a considerable percentage of my days down in southern Europe
  3. Sean Barker
    Karnobat (Bul) to Marinka (Bul)

    I decided to get off the busy road I was on in search of quieter roads heading due south but that turned out to be a mistake as I got totally lost and ended up getting sucked into “Burgos” anyway. I had cycled over 100km to get to 50km from where I started.
    But to add injury to insult my GPS packed up so I had to ask for directions and was given a bum steer in “Burgos” and travelled in a 60km circular route that brought me right back to “Burgos” again.
    I’m pretty knackered right now but at least I’m on the right road, even if I am not much closer than I was this morning.



    The mountainous lands where Bulgaria meets Turkey
  4. Sean Barker
    Bad Lobenstien (D) to Hohenberg (D)

    The heavy rain that had started as I was erecting my tent last night had continued unabated throughout the night and well beyond the morning. Alas my tent had flooded during the night and I and everything in it was soaked.
    I managed to air it out during a dry patch in the afternoon and it is now damp rather than wet.
    Today was cold, bitterly cold! I struggled to use my hands and shivered uncontrollably in the cold of the early day.
    Again I was getting bogged down on these forest cycle paths and decided to go in search of roads and easier passage.
    Through the trees I could hear traffic and made my way over the hills through the densely forested terrain in as straight a line as possible until I came upon the road I could hear. It was a fairly busy road but was to my eyes a duel carriageway.
    I pushed my bike onto the road and headed south east.
    No more than five km down the road I was joined by a "Bundespolizei" car (Germany's federal police force) and instructed to pull in to the side of the road.
    I was told that it is illegal to cycle on this road as it was the Autobahn.
    Embarrassed and concerned that I was in trouble I explained how I had been on the cycle paths in the forest but couldn't cope with the mud and had joined the Autobahn a few kilometres northwest unaware of what it was.
    The two officers (A male and a female) were most sympathetic and as we chatted about my weeks cycling and of how I planned to cycle to Istanbul and back. They pulled out an electronic tablet and showed me the best and safest way to proceed. They informed me that if I made my way to "Selb" I would find altogether safer and more appropriate cycle paths going in my intended direction.
    I was then told that the best thing to do would be to cycle some 10km further on where there was an exit that would put me back on course and that they would follow behind me to keep me safe.
    I cycled on with the police car some twenty meters back with lights a flashing and every car that either passed us or came from the other direction looked in my direction and no doubt thought I must have been someone of importance to warrant such support.
    When we reached the exit the two officers gave me a printout of the route to get me to where I needed to go and shook my hand wishing me good luck and safe passage as I crossed the continent.Having already made my way through "Gefell", "Topen", "Hof", and "Rehau" I continued on through "Selb" and on to "Hohenberg"
    I am now on the border and in sight of the Czech Republic
    After spending most of the last week wet I feel my strength is waning. My feet are in a poor state, covered in dead colourless and peeling flesh they are bleeding from the soles and heels. I have lost two toenails and two more are clearly not going to last much longer
    I shall let the air get to them tonight and bandage them up for tomorrow

    An eventful day that will live with me forever
  5. Sean Barker
    Beius (ROM) to Abrud (ROM)

    Today was the toughest stage so far but by far the most spectacular.
    I made my way from “Beius down the busy E79 to “Lunca” where I took the 75 and was soon to face my first real mountain climb of the tour. In a mere 20km I climbed 1000m but the descent was through some stunning countryside as I followed the course of the river through the ski resort of “Vartop” and some lovely villages such as “Izlaz”, “Arieseni”, “Raul Valcea” “Ursoaia”, “Vadu Motilor”, the thriving town of “Campeni” and on to “Abrud”. It was 35c at the bottom of the climb and only slightly cooler at the summit.
    As tough as today was I am fully aware that the big climbs are in a couple of days time.


    Making my way across the Transylvanian mountains


    The charming village or Vartop
  6. Sean Barker
    Sarkad (H) to Beius (ROM)

    Today was the hottest day yet at 38c. With no cloud cover, covering up was the order of the day. I wore the desert scarf which has turned out to be an inspired purchase.
    I made my way across the border and into the busy town of “Salonta” and then through “Tulca”, “Tinca”, “Soimi” and on to the busy town of “Beius” where on spotting a pension and the heat sapping my strength I decided to call it a day.
    The woman who ran the establishment asked where I’d cycled from and when I told her England she called out for all the staff to witness my tale. She later went on to tell me that they had never had a touring cyclist stay here before.
    This pension also runs a popular restaurant with a large stone oven where pizza’s are cooked to order. I enjoyed a large one and a couple of bottles of surprisingly good Romanian lager before heading to bed for an early night and a bed, something I hadn’t enjoyed since back in the Czech Republic which seemed so long ago.


    Desperately trying to protect myself from the oppressive sun in those early days
  7. Sean Barker
    Lost (Bul) to Karnobat (Bul)

    I managed to pick up the GPS course today so am comforted in the knowledge that I am always traveling in the right direction.
    Today’s route took me over a torturous climb that was so steep keeping my front wheel on the ground was a challenge.
    I’m really shattered this evening but my stomach seems to be settling down at last.
    It was a late start today after heavy rain during the night which continued on late into the morning. I packed up a wet tent but in this heat it dried later in minutes when I stopped to cook up lunch.
    The road signs are now in both Cyrillic and Roman lettering so I can get a fix on where I am.
    I shall now head for Burgos on the coast of the Black Sea which is well signposted and move south from there. All being well I should hit Turkey the day after tomorrow.
  8. Sean Barker
    Miercorea Sibiulut (ROM) to Cartisoara (ROM)

    A really tough and stressful days cycling as I made my way along the busy 1 and through the city of “Sibiu”. Then it was on to the equally busy and stressful E68 through “Bradu”, “Avrig”, “Porumbacu de jos” and on to the “Transfagarasan Highway”
    I found accommodation in the little village of “Cartisoara” where a local family have a home with a small annex that they rent for weary travellers. They invited me to join them in their evening meal where they fed me and questioned me at length on my tour so far. We ended the meal with strong liquor that they distilled themselves, I think it was from pear but it was bloody strong stuff.
    Today was hot, 35c in the shade and considerably hotter out on the road.
    Even now in the cooling evening it is still well over 30c and I find myself transfixed on the snow-capped Carpathian Mountains to the south that I will have to cross tomorrow
    I have no doubt that tomorrow will be a day that I will never forget.

    The hot Rumanian summers, probably not really conducive with long distance cycling but I soon got used to it

    The beginning of that famous road and the daunting Carpathian mountains in the distance.
  9. Sean Barker
    Abrud (ROM) to Miercurea Sibiului (ROM)

    I left "Abrud" and started the climb towards "Zlatna", through “Metes” and on into the thriving town of “Albaiulia” before taking the altogether busier 7 through “Sebes” and on into “Miercurea Sibiului” Where I checked into quite a plush hotel which cost twice as much as the place I stayed at last night but at around £20 I can live with that.

    I really thought my number was up today when on the descent into Zlatna a maniac decided to overtake three vans in a row, as he was ploughing on the other side of the road (the side I'm cycling on) all I'm looking at is certain death unless I veer of the road and hope not to go over the ravine. Fortunately the combination of the thick bed of sand that lined the ten or so inches between the road and the drop I was never going to walk away from in tandom with the tree I threw my arms around for grim life were enough to bring me to a halt
    The maniac drove on but one of the guys he overtook stoped and came back to me. He said in his broken English that that driver was "loco' mad in the head" he then went on to say "you are a very lucky man, God holds you in his hand". I did think that was a particularly poetic turn of phrase, even if I have always seen myself as a batter for the other side

    The terrible roads are taking their toll on my bike; both front racks are broken and held together with string and duct tape. They clearly need to be replaced as soon as possible.
    I’ll look in “Sibiu” tomorrow but I haven’t seen any other touring cyclists in weeks and doubt they get many (in any) in these parts.
    I may well have to take a detour towards “Sofia” in Bulgaria to have any chance of replacing broken equipment.


    A typical and charming Rumanian church with obligatory silver domes
  10. Sean Barker
    Tiszasuly (H) to Biharnagybajom (H)

    Another rain free day but boy was it hot! It was 32c out on the road and keeping hydrated was the order of the day, it is now quite noticeable how much more fluid I am taking on board.
    I followed my GPS course through “Kunhegyes”and on to “Karcag”, where I hit the E60 motorway and couldn’t go any further by bike, so I followed my compass in the hope of picking up a road taking a favourable direction. After spending the late afternoon and evening totally lost I found myself in the village of “Biharnagybajom” and made camp in the forest just beyond.
    I’m hoping to pick up my intended route sometime tomorrow
  11. Sean Barker
    Overhausen (D) to Kassel (D)

    The rain never let up today, so that's 48 hours I've been soaked through and I'm starting to look like a human prune.
    I spent the day (as yesterday) on quiet forest roads and cycle paths and later roads but with the German drivers so courteous and considerate sharing the road with them is a pleasure.
    I made camp in the forest just north of Kassel. Soaked through and in a wet tent and sleeping bag I dreamt of drier days.
  12. Sean Barker
    God knows where (Bul) to Somewhere further Southeast (Bul)

    I really am cycling blind at this point. I’m just following my compass southeast until I either pick up my GPS route or hit the Black Sea.
    Bulgaria seems much the same as Southern Romania inasmuch as the people in every village I pass through cease what they are doing and are transfixed on me as I pass through or stop in their village. I rather suspect that cycling tourists are a rarity in these parts to put it mildly


    After suffering from a severe gastric bug for six days where I was left with diarrhoea and constantly vomiting in temperatures in the mid to high 30’s and despite consuming at least four and a half litres of water a day as well as two litres of fruit juice and assorted soft drinks and tea, I didn’t actually manage to urinate for three days (days 2, 3 & 4)
    Despite being in this pitiful state over the course of those six days I still managed to cycle over 720km
    I was quite pleased with that as it reassured me that I wasn’t quite as soft as I feared I was getting.
    I think this picture really captures the state I was in
  13. Sean Barker
    Izvoru (ROM) to Zimnicea (ROM)

    After a nervy night I got up at sunrise and was on the road for 6:00am.
    I made my way through “Slobozia”, “Tatarastii” and on down to “Alexandria” and then down the 51 to “Zimnicea”.
    When I reached the border I discovered that it was a ferry crossing across the Danube and there are only five sailings a day.
    So I decided to made my way back some 7km back to a pension I had passed earlier and make the crossing tomorrow as I was absolutely shattered.
  14. Sean Barker
    Biharnagybajom (H) to Sarkad (H)

    Another frustrating day, inasmuch as I made my way to the road on my GPS route only to find that it was also closed to bicycles. There was nothing for it but to retrace my steps some 16km in the stifling heat that was now up to 35c in search of another route.
    Through the back roads and cratered lanes I made my way through “Zsaka”, “Furta”, “Komadi”, “Zsadany” and on to “Sarkad”
    I must admit to feeling somewhat apprehensive about entering Romania after hearing some of the things people have had to say to me today. But what the Hell I’m not one for quitting.
  15. Sean Barker
    Spacince (SL) to Demandice (SL)

    I awoke at dawn after a dry night to see storm clouds gathering, so I packed up sharpish and just in time as the rain started no sooner than I hit the road. I set off happy in the knowledge that my tent and equipment were packed away dry.
    This was probably the least attractive stage so far as I stuck to the route on my GPS. The course shadowed the motorway and passed through a few industrial towns.
    The rain today had to be seen to be believed! As I cycled up and out of "Nitra" the water was coming down the road like a river.
    Large sections of today's stage were on busy roads and clearly the Slovaks are not used to cyclists as far too many of them sped past me at high speed with mere centimetres clearance. It was a stressful day at times as I wobbled and struggled for control in the driving rain as the cars whizzed by.

    The northern arm of the Carpathian mountain range that I would cross in torrential rain


    Taking some shelter from the rain
  16. Sean Barker
    Zennet (Ned) to Wesel (D)

    After a difficult night’s sleep, (my injured arm kept waking me every time I moved) I was unaware at this time that I had a rotor cuff tear in the shoulder that wouldn't heal until I was to finish the tour and receive medical attention.
    I awoke to find that when I pitched my tent in the dead of night the previous day I had inadvertently camped in a field full of cows. They may have been on the far side of the field but for all the world they seemed to me to be standing in a line and looking at me in a disapprovingly way,
    I packed up at first light and hit the road, stopping shortly thereafter to cook up a hearty breakfast to see me through the day. I was having trouble with my cooker leaking fuel but managed to fix it with some strategically placed duct tape but to my annoyance I discovered that I somehow managed to lose my compass. A priority for today is to get a new one.
    I made my way to Wesel passing through "Kleve" "Kalkar" and "Xanten" the weather was one heavy rain shower after another all day but the long term weather forecast was rain rain and more rain for the days and weeks ahead.


    Day two and into Germany


    The charming town of Kleve
  17. Sean Barker
    Wesel (D) to Overhausen (D)

    After a morning of light showers the hard rain came down with a vengeance in the afternoon as the skies darkened and I spent the day soaked through to the skin.
    I made my way through the rain and passed through a plethora of small villages and towns such as "Selm, "Werne and "Hamm" before eventually worn out I hurriedly erected my tent in the woods while being buffeted by the rain.
    It was to be an uneasy sleep both damp and cold
  18. Sean Barker
    Lnare (CZ) to Becice (CZ)

    Today I travelled along the quieter roads and national cycle routes (although they just follow the quieter roads with off road sections)
    I made my way through “Blatna”, “Skvoretice”, “Lom”, “Mirotice”, “Cerhonice”, “Ostrovec”, “Varvazov”, “Zvikovske Podhradi”. “Oslov”, “Vlastec”, Then onto the 138 through “Zahori”, “Albrechtice nad Vltavou”. Then onto the 159 through “Neznasov and onto the surprisingly large “Tyn nad Vitavou” before making my way onto the 147 to “Becice”.
    From the west I could see a large storm rapidly closing in on me so I heading for a small woods where I quickly erected my tent and got everything inside mere moments before being buffeted and shaken violently as the storm passed by. This was the most violent storm I had experienced since being caught in the open tundra of the Arctic some two years before and I knew from experience to get all the weight of my equipment around the edges of the groundsheet to prevent the gale getting under the groundsheet and lifting up the tent pegs.
    The storm soon passed much to my relief but the heavy rain that is now hammering my tent looks like being here for some time.




    A typical charming Czech town nestled in the forest atop a hill
  19. Sean Barker
    Stribro (CZ) to Lnare (CZ)

    Maybe Freud was right "The Irish are beyond psychoanalysis"
    But the question remains “Why do I do this to myself?” Perhaps it’s my guilty past and some messed up belief that the only path to redemption is purification through pain. My catholic upbringing at the hands of Jesuit priests and Christian brothers has a lot to answer for!
    Whatever here I am again living in my self-imposed hell!
    These are dark days and these are the times that will test me. I have to stay strong and focused now. I know that better days lie ahead I have to hold on to that.
    Today was a frustrating day. I got completely lost trying to get out of “Pizen”and actually ended up on a mountain bike path with narrow paths and sheer drops to the side. After a 25km circle of hard going terrain I finally ended back where I started in “Pizen”
    However I met with a couple of local mountain bikers who were amazed that I had got around the loop on my loaded touring bike. When I explained that it was not by design and that I was lost, they kindly escorted me some 10km out of their way to put me on the right route again.
    Despite the threat of heavy rain today only saw light showers.
    Today was a long day in the saddle but relatively little progress to show for it. On the upside however I got a good map that will guide me over the next week or so.
  20. Sean Barker
    Becice (CZ) to Kunzak (CZ)

    I was greatly relieved that my tent survived the storm last night and that a tree hadn't come down on me but I was soaked during the night. The rain was still coming down heavy when I awoke and no sign of it letting up. I knew I had to go out in it as I was out of food and with tomorrow being Sunday I had to stock up today.
    There was nothing for it, I had to move on. I tried to care for my feet as best I could. There were large chunks of dead white flesh coming off them and I was missing five toenails, I am genuinely concerned that I am getting trench foot, I cleaned them and bandaged them up before I packed up everything in the pouring rain and was in no doubt I couldn't get any wetter.
    Today was brutally tough, the rain never let up for a moment, I was cold and soaked through, my shoulder hurt my feet hurt and I really struggled to keep mentally right. My tent and sleeping bag were wet and my priority was to find accommodation if possible and dry everything out, as well as stocking up on food.
    I cycled through loads of little villages and the towns of " “Veseli nad Luznici”, and the sizable “Jindrichuv Hradec”. I continued east until I came to the village of “Kunzac” where I found a pension and some respite from this sufferance.

    The pension was owned and run by a delightful couple who were fascinated by what I had achieved and what I yet intended to do. They invited me to their private quarters to dine with them where we discussed my cycling tours before moving onto their true passion “Music” where we discussed our favourite works by D’vorak, Chopin and Mozart before amazingly moving onto Bluegrass where the owner played banjo in a local Bluegrass band.
    We continued to chat while they introduced me to one Czech beer after another and then a local spirit distilled from plums.
    I feel a little tipsy now as I write this account of the day but I think I’ll sleep well tonight.
  21. Sean Barker
    Kunzac (CZ) to Staats (Aus)

    Fed, dry and rested I headed out into the rain under dark foreboding skies.
    I cycled hard all day stopping only once for twenty minutes under a children’s play shelter to cook some hot food.
    Over every hill I hoped to see clear skies but twas never to be.
    I made my way through “Decice”, and “Jemince”. Then stayed on the 408 all the way to “Hevlin” before crossing the border into Austria and into the border town of “Laa an der Thaya”.
    I then cycled into “Staatz” dominated by a castle ruins atop a hill. Just a kilometre further on but in sight of the castle I pitched my tent beside a hedgerow before the thunder and lightning both roared and lit up the sky above me.
    Surely this weather has to change!



    Crossing into Austria


    Making camp within sight of the ruins of an Austrian castle
  22. Sean Barker
    Galgaguta (H) to Tiszasuly (H)

    A rain free day! Only my second one so far but it felt so good to be out of the rain gear and feel the sun on my back.
    I left "Galgaguta" and made my way through “Acsa”, “Erdokurt”, “Kallo”, “Versea”, “Hatvan”, “Jaszbereny” and on to “Tiszasuly”
    The minor roads here in Hungary are appalling, they actually look like they have been bombed at times. I just hope my bike holds out.
    It feels strange navigating with my GPS alone, as without maps I’m not quite sure where in the country I am.
  23. Sean Barker
    Demandice (SL) to Galgaguta (H)

    Gone was the heavy rain of yesterday, just showers and a light constant drizzle.
    Because of the rain this morning and the quiet secluded spot I found to camp in, I didn't set off until 11:00am.
    I really struggled today in the damp, warm and muggy conditions. I followed the GPS route but was never really sure where I was but it was uplifting to cross the border into Hungary



    Crossing into Hungary
  24. Sean Barker
    Kassel (D) to Walterhausen (D)

    A beautiful day with no rain! I even had the chance to dry out some of my equipment including my tent and sleeping bag.
    I started off on route but was soon forced to take the cycle path route that passed through all the charming villages. Unfortunately I went somewhat off course and spent a large part of the day lost (something I would do in no small measure as the tour progressed).
    I eventually made my way to "Sontra" before getting back to "Eisnach" and then back on course to Walterhausen



    Deep into Germany and the start of the climbs
  25. Sean Barker
    Hohenberg (D) to Stribro (CZ)

    Sitting in my tent with the rain pelting the roof, this the ninth day of my tour and it has rained on eight of them!
    I crossed the border this morning and made my way into "Cheb" and then through "Lazne Kynzvart" then onto the "230" at "Plana" to "Stribro" where I made camp in the woods.
    I must admit I'm exhausted and my spirits are low. I am genuinely concerned that I have bitten off more than I can chew.
    I have never suffered so much so early into a tour before. Not being able to sleep properly at night due to my injured shoulder and painful feet is really taking its toll on me



    Crossing into the Czech Republic
×
×
  • Create New...