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Sean Barker

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Blog Entries posted by Sean Barker

  1. Sean Barker
    Jagodina (Serb) to Durdevo (Serb)


    [font=arial][size=4]Well the storm broke in the late afternoon today and boy what a spectacular storm it was. Riding through it with bolts of lightning hitting the road ahead of me and igniting a small stumpy tree to my right I couldn't understand how it wasn't me being hit as nothing was higher than me on this road.[/size][/font]
    [font=arial][size=4]I thought of how I had escaped with my life so many times on this tour from being run off the road and managing to grab on to the top of a tree before going over the precipice of a cliff, the incident in the marijuana plantation, camping in a mine field etc. I began to feel as if the Angel of Death was oblivious to my existence. I stopped in the driving rain of the storm and but my earphones in and listened to the Rolling Stones Gimmie Shelter on repeat as I rode through it surrounded with lightning flashes[/size][/font]
    [font=arial][size=4]Never did the lyrics of that first verse seem so apt[/size][/font]
    [font=arial][size=4][color=#474747]Oh, a storm is threat'ning[/color]
    My very life today
    If I don't get some shelter
    Oh yeah, I'm gonna fade away[/size][/font]

    [font=arial][size=4]As I sit in my tent now with the storm quietly rumbling into the distance, I think of the difference between the first part of the day and the latter part and how I had pushed my bike through a river crossing in the warmth of a sunny morning.[/size][/font]


    [font=arial][size=4][img]http://www.cheevie.webspace.virginmedia.com/Photos/Cycle%20Tour%206/P1000955.jpg[/img][color=rgb(0,0,0)]I stopped here to take off my shoes and socks to push the bike through the river[/color][/size][/font]
  2. Sean Barker
    Cartisoara (ROM) to Corbeni (ROM)

    What an epic day!
    I awoke this morning feeling quite delicate, not sure if it was the home distilled alcohol last night or the fact I've been feeling a little under the weather with a slight tummy bug over the last couple of days but I was still excited about the stage to come.

    The climb could best be described as gruelling. I took around four hours to cycle the 30km to the top as the heat took its toll on my weakened body.

    I stopped occasionally to take photos and have a drink. It was on one of those early stops that two German men pulled over to see if I was OK, Thinking I was in trouble they felt compelled to pull over and come to my assistance. I reassured them I was fine and that I always looked this bad when temperatures were over 35c and I was cycling up a seemingly never ending mountain.
    We stopped and chatted about football for a while; they were both staunch Borussia Dortmund fans but had a keen interest in the English game.

    I headed off again but it was clear I wasn’t right, I was sweating profusely and feeling nauseous also I was going through my water faster than I had anticipated and was now concerned that I was going to run out before getting to the other side.

    At an altitude 1650m just as I passed the tree line I was forced to stop as I was getting quite unsteady on the bike. As I sat down in the shadow of a great boulder a car pulled over and an Israeli couple came over to see if I needed help. I told them that I was exhausted and was taking a rest. The lady was quite concerned about me and insisted I took a selection of fruits to eat on the climb. She asked if I had enough water and when I explained that I had water in my drinks bottles but it was now quite warm she bid her husband to go to the boot of their car where he returned with a two litre bottle of half frozen water. I drank deep and drained the bottle, she smiled and getting another insisting I fill my bottles.
    They told me that they were driving over the mountain to see the beautiful “Lake Vidrau” beyond and that they would look for me on their return. We bid each other adieu and I watched them vanish around the next hairpin bend as I continued my accent.

    Refreshed and feeling somewhat stronger I pushed on until I reached the summit. No sooner had I got there than I saw a cyclist coming towards me. We immediately made a bee line towards each other embraced in utter disbelief in seeing another cyclist. His name was Sylvain from France; we chatted for a while and told each other of our adventures. He was also a long distance solo cyclist enjoying the unique challenges that it brings, Once again he hugged me and said “Sean we are brothers from a very small family”.
    We said our goodbyes and descended the mountain in different directions.

    Some half way down the mountain I stopped to cook a meal and take a rest. While there the Israeli couple on their return trip pulled in and the lady in quite an emotional state told me how proud she was that I did it and how relieved she was to see me and how they had worried all day about me.
    In yet another gesture of kindness she gave me more food that they had bought for me in the town I would get to some hours later. I thanked them for their generosity and told them it was an act of kindness I would never forget. She hugged me and I shook his hand before heading in our different directions.
    I continued on past the beautiful “Lake Vidrau” before finding a pension under the shadow of Draculas castle in a quaint little village.



    The ascent but still with the much appreciated shade from the trees

    The sheer drops at the edge of the road, if you lose your line on this road you won’t live to tell the tale

    Landslides are a constant threat up here. There are signs every kilometre or so strongly advising you to be quiet.

    Above the tree line the sun really takes its toll on the cyclist but the views are spectacular

    You know it’s been a real climb when you get this white stuff on the higher ground

    And now for the downhill section on the other side, time for your hands to ache on the brakes instead on your legs on the pedals.

    A quick stop for another shot of this truly breath taking landscape

    OK maybe just one more


    Just taking in the stunning views


    The stunningly beautiful Lake Vidaru
  3. Sean Barker
    Havsa (Tur) to Ormenio (Gr)

    After cycling through “Edirne” I made for the quieter crossing just beyond “Karaagac”.
    This was a tense border. I wasn’t allowed to take photos but the army on both sides patrolled it fully armed and watched each other intently from behind sandbags and the sights of their automatic guns.
    These two old adversaries may now be at peace but it was abundantly obvious that trust was still in short supply.
    This was the first time I had to empty my panniers and be thoroughly checked at a border crossing. When asked by the guard where I had started my bike ride and where I was going, he had difficulty believing anyone would or could do it, so he was immediately suspicious of me.
    After a somewhat lengthy border crossing I made my way through “Kastanies”, “Kanades”, “Plati”, “Spilaio”, “Dikaia”, “Ptelea” and onto “Ormenio”.
    I felt really tired today, no doubt cycling yesterday in temperatures of well over 40c took its toll on my body. I was however lifted by cycling out of Turkey and crossing into Greece where I am now camped under a couple of trees hidden away as the storm clouds gather and the thunder rumbles.


    Crossing the border between Turkey and Greece
  4. Sean Barker
    Kursumlija (Serb) to Lukovo (Serb)


    I'm struggling now. I'm suffering from a sore throat and fever. I'm also well off the beaten track. I also have to be careful here in the woods as by the tracks and markings I am clearly back in bear country, also wolves and wild boar.
    This really is a wild and beautiful place but I have noticed signs from time to time warning about land mines.
    When venturing into the woods to make camp I am searching out the wild boar paths and sticking to them.
  5. Sean Barker
    Prokupije (Serb) to Kursumlija (Serb)

    Today was considerably cooler than yesterday 28 degrees instead of the 35 degrees of yesterday and boy did I appreciate the difference.
    For the most part I followed a small river west and enjoyed a cooler breeze coming from the north.
    I am now quite close to the Serbian/Kosovo border and it is wild mountainous country.

    I have twenty days to make it to Vienna and then four days of easy street, I just hope I make it.
  6. Sean Barker
    Nis (Serb) to Prokupije (Serb)


    I didn't feel too well today, I think the heat got to me. Today was in the high 30's and I found myself constantly getting dizzy and swerving on the bike so took plenty of rests along the course which slowed progress down somewhat.
    I have spent the day making my way along the quiet little roads that connect up the little villages north of the E-80
    As I camp in the woods tonight I can clearly see I have some seriously mountainous terrain ahead of me
  7. Sean Barker
    Mountains west of Beles (Srb) to 10km outside Nis (Srb)

    Today was an eventful day.
    Even though I had camped in the shade of a wood last night I awoke this morning hot and saturated with sweat and shaking. I’m not sure if I’m coming down with something or going through withdrawal but I felt rough.

    Today was quite the contrast in terms of cycling terrain. The morning was spent on mountain paths and then in the afternoon I was back on some busy roads. It was on one of these roads (the 134) that I woke up in the middle of the road with my head in a field workers lap as she moistened my lips with some freshly cut water melon. As I regained my senses I could see my bike had been pushed to the side of the road and was resting against and under the shade of a tree. A driver had stopped his car and put the hazard lights on to prevent anyone running me over. I stumbled to my feet and thanked them both and sat under the tree with my bike to recover.
    I soon became aware that I was no longer under the shade of the tree, which had moved some 45 degrees around the tree. I had lost all sense of time. I was now acutely aware that I was not safe on the roads and would for the foreseeable future have to forge a path north west off road.

    I have made camp tonight in the forest and as I write this a tortoise has just walked past the door of my tent.

    I think I’m some 10km southeast of Nis which I think is going to be a sizable town.

    I will head in tomorrow and if I can find somewhere open replenish my stocks before making my way back into wilderness again.

    These out of the way roads in the Balkans may have been quiet but they looked as if they were bomb cratered
  8. Sean Barker
    Sofia (Bul) to Mountain paths to the west of Beles (Srb)

    After spending the previous day searching the city for clothes in vain It felt good to be on the move and leaving Bulgaria behind me.
    I followed the busy 8 and crossed the border at “Kalotina” and made my way through “Dimitrovgrad” before taking a left after “Beles” to escape this busy and dangerous road.
    I made an alarming discovery today. When going to take my heart medication I noticed that the packet I keep in my bar bag for convenience was empty and only then realised that when my pannier had been stolen that all my medication had gone with it.
    I simply can’t turn back now towards Sofia. There is no guarantee I could get a replacement stock anyway. I have to push on. This tour has been brutally tough so far and I now fear that it is about to get a whole lot tougher.
  9. Sean Barker
    Belovo (Bul) to Sofia (Bul)

    It was hot today and dry so I managed to dry out my tent and clothes after the storm yesterday.

    I made my way along the N roads that for all the world looked as if they had been abandoned. The route for much of the day was more off road than on.

    I checked into the "Art Hostel" which seems quite expensive for what it is but I really have no choice as this is most likely my last chance to get clothes and a pannier. I really don't fancy going through yesterday again

    I have checked out a couple of the larger bike shops but to no avail. It's mountain bikes only around here but when you consider the state of the roads I wouldn't want to be on anything else if I lived here.

    I will spend tomorrow looking for replacements but I'm not particularly confident.


    The run in to Sofia was on busier roads than I really cared for
  10. Sean Barker
    Plovdiv (Bul) to Belovo (Bul)

    It felt good to be leaving Plovdiv and putting some distance between myself and that bad experience.

    It was a pleasant and warm day but humid as I made my way along the 8 and through “Pazardjik” but as I approached "Belovo" the skies went a dark blue and the heavens opened. I quickly ran for cover into the woods but by the time I had erected my tent I was soaked. I have wrung out as much water as I can out of my clothes and will just have to wear them wet tomorrow.

    I keep telling myself things will get better soon but I’m beginning to think that they never will.

    I’m sitting in my tent now that has collapsed and has a pool of water in it.

    I had intended to get food in the next town as I am clean out.
    I am hungry and soaked through.

    It’s not going to be a comfortable night.


  11. Sean Barker
    Plovdiv (Bul)

    I couldn't sleep last night as the events of the previous day kept churning away in my head. So I got up at first light (a little after 5:00am) and cycled the city and southern suburbs for chance the pannier might have been discarded but alas to no avail.
    I headed back to the hostel some four hours later and had breakfast before cycling back to the police station to finish off the reports.

    I then spent the day cycling all over the city and out of town shopping areas for cycling gear but drew dead. I did manage to get a couple of sports tops and a pair of casual shorts unpadded naturally, but at least I can wear them while my only pair of padded cycling shorts are drying.

    Looks like I'll have to pass through Sofia as that will be my only chance of getting replacements now.

    After cycling over 100km today and having nothing to show for it, I'm really struggling to stay positive.
  12. Sean Barker
    Bjala Reka (Bul) to Plovdiv (Bul)

    DISASTER! After making my way along the busy 8 and through “Debar”, “Popovista”, “Sadovo”, and onto the outskirts of “Plovdiv” I stopped briefly at a supermarket to replenish my supplies. In the short time the bike was out of my sight one of the rear panniers was stolen. It contained a few odds and ends as well as all my clothes. I have now lost all my Gore-Tex rain gear and changes of clothing. All I now possess (clothes wise) is the shorts, socks, vest and scarf I am wearing.
    I have spent most of the day in the police station, at first waiting for a translator and then the formalities of all the paperwork (which I’m sure will all be a waste of time)
    I have found a youth hostel in the old town as I will have to return to the police station tomorrow.
    I will also have to spend much of tomorrow in search of replacement clothes but I’m not hopeful of finding a pannier and/or cycling shorts.
    I feel really low right now.

    Sunset over Plovdiv
  13. Sean Barker
    Xapmaham (Bul) to Bjala Reka (Bul)

    Another hot day but thunder and lightning were always close by.
    I continued on the busy 8 and passed through “Stoykova”, Podkrepa”, and the larger “Haskovo”, then through “Klokotnitsa”, “Gorski izvor” and Varbitsa”. The storm eventually broke as I passed through “Bjala Reka” where I dived for cover in the corner of a corn field in the shade of a hedgerow where I made camp for the night.
    Hopefully this busy road will be quieter on Sunday.
  14. Sean Barker
    Ormenio (GR) to Harmanli (Bul)

    Well I wasn't in Greece long before the route took me back into Bulgaria and its confusing signs.
    Another suspicious border check as the customs officer found my story of cycling to Istanbul and back hard to believe, at least this one wasn’t as thorough and time consuming as the last one.
    A nice thing happened out on the road today. As I was cycling down the 8 in Bulgaria a young man on a scooter with his girlfriend riding pillion signalled for me to pull in to the side of the road. I pulled in at the next widening of the road and he reached into his bag and gave me a freshly picked water melon from his collection. A few kilometres further on I came to an abandoned building where I pulled in and made short work of the large fruit.
    After crossing the border today I made my way onto the 8 and passed through “Lyubimets” before pushing on to “Harmanli” where just beyond I found a nice wood to make camp..
    The road I now find myself on is a narrow and busy road and quite stressful to cycle. It looks like this is going to be the case for a few days as there is no alternative.


    Crossing into Bulgaria
  15. Sean Barker
    Marmaracik (Tur) to Havsa (Tur)

    Today was hot. Over 40c and boy does that sap your strength! On the upside this was a considerably easier stretch of road than the one I came in on, a nice wide hard shoulder gave me some breathing space from the fast moving traffic.
    I stayed on the D100 and passed through “Vakiflar”, “Luleburgaz”, “Babaeski” and on into “Havsa” Where I had had simply enough of oppressive heat.
    I think I am now within striking distance of Greece and should cross the border tomorrow.



    I spent a couple of weeks riding in temperatures of 45.46 degrees but this is the only sign I saw, be it late in the evening
  16. Sean Barker
    Silviri (Tur) to Marmaracik (Tur)

    Retracing my steps and trying to find a route along the coast and avoiding the busy and potentially lethal main road. I made my way through “Seymen” and on to “Corlu” before reaching “Marmaracik. The next town would be a further 30km away and after the slow progress of the earlier part of the day I decided to stop here, the plan being to rest up and make a big push tomorrow.
  17. Sean Barker
    Istanbul (Tur) to Silviri (Tur)

    My luck was in. I managed to get a new front rack fitted and replace all the other worn out components. I was now confident of having a fighting chance of making it back.
    By the time my bike was ready it was 11:30 but I remembered a hotel I had passed on the cycle ride in and it was only 77km away so I decided to make my way for that.
    It seemed strange cycling into the setting sun rather than watching my shadow grow as evening fell.
    However the strong headwind that I had to force my way through on the run in to Istanbul was just as strong only now it blew me westward as I enjoyed the refreshing and cooling sea breezes.



    Getting the bike fixed up for the long voyage home.
  18. Sean Barker
    Buyukgekmecie (Tur) to Istanbul (Tur)

    I cycled into the city on the hair-raising main road and searched for a bike shop to make some vital repairs.
    Unfortunately the only bike shop that serves touring cyclists that I can find is closed today (on Sunday). So I decided to find a cheap hotel and come back tomorrow. One way or another I have to get my bike sorted out as there is absolutely no chance of it making it home in its current state.
    It was nice to ramble around the Old Town in the cool of the evening. One thing is for certain, I’m coming back here again to explore this amazing city thoroughly

    Istanbul



    The Blue Mosque


    The Hagia Sophia
  19. Sean Barker
    Saray (Tur) to Buyukgekmece (Tur)

    Well after 33 days, 3,889.2km and 45,778 metres of climbing I am now on the outskirts of Istanbul

    Today was tough as the roads are busy and simply not safe to cycle on so I find myself for the most part cycling on the verve beside the road.
    I made my way through “Cerkezkoy”. “Celtic”, “Silviri”, “Selimpasa”, “Kumburgaz” and on to “Buyukgekmece”
    On one of the rougher sections of road today my right front rack, which was in a pretty bad state completely snapped as I hit a pot hole. I managed to reshape it and secure it with more string and duct tape but it is now virtually useless. Finding a new one in Istanbul as well as a new chain, cassette and new tires is now imperative

    I am now on the outskirts of Istanbul yet still some 60km from the centre. This city is utterly vast!
  20. Sean Barker
    Kirklareli (Tur) to Saray (Tur)

    Today was hot and I really felt it. Turkey is having a heatwave and it hit 45c out on the road today.
    The roads too are a concern, very busy with precious little room between me and the high speed traffic that whizzes by. Every time a truck comes up behind me they honk their horn and my only option is to pull in off the road. The constant stopping and starting is making progress slow and it’s only going to get worse as I close in on Istanbul.
    I stayed on the main road (my only choice) as I passed through “Vize” and into “Saray”. One good thing is the hotels are really cheap at around £15 a night with breakfast.
    I have made really good time on the way down here and I think I’ll reward myself now with taking it a little easier under this oppressive sun.
    I met a helpful Turk as I took a rest in the shade of a petrol station forecourt and he has advised me on a different route into Istanbul that I now intend to take.
  21. Sean Barker
    Karnobat (Bul) to Marinka (Bul)

    I decided to get off the busy road I was on in search of quieter roads heading due south but that turned out to be a mistake as I got totally lost and ended up getting sucked into “Burgos” anyway. I had cycled over 100km to get to 50km from where I started.
    But to add injury to insult my GPS packed up so I had to ask for directions and was given a bum steer in “Burgos” and travelled in a 60km circular route that brought me right back to “Burgos” again.
    I’m pretty knackered right now but at least I’m on the right road, even if I am not much closer than I was this morning.



    The mountainous lands where Bulgaria meets Turkey
  22. Sean Barker
    Lost (Bul) to Karnobat (Bul)

    I managed to pick up the GPS course today so am comforted in the knowledge that I am always traveling in the right direction.
    Today’s route took me over a torturous climb that was so steep keeping my front wheel on the ground was a challenge.
    I’m really shattered this evening but my stomach seems to be settling down at last.
    It was a late start today after heavy rain during the night which continued on late into the morning. I packed up a wet tent but in this heat it dried later in minutes when I stopped to cook up lunch.
    The road signs are now in both Cyrillic and Roman lettering so I can get a fix on where I am.
    I shall now head for Burgos on the coast of the Black Sea which is well signposted and move south from there. All being well I should hit Turkey the day after tomorrow.
  23. Sean Barker
    Zimnicea (ROM) to God knows where (Bul)

    It was a late start as the ferry crossing was at 11:30am and I rode today at a gentle pace due to my delicate state.
    I’m well off my intended course and completely lost. Finding my way around this part of Bulgaria is no easy thing, all the signs are in their own unique script and impossible for me to read or pronounce. All I can really do is keep on a southeast heading until I hit either the Black Sea or Turkey.
    This evening has been nothing short of nerve-wracking.
    I stopped around 5:30 and saw an entrance leading into a field of sunflowers. I followed the edge of the field between the flowers and the hedgerow in search a more secluded spot when I came upon a large clearing and a field full of marijuana plants. I was tired and hadn’t the energy to go much further so made camp by the edge of the plantation.
    Shortly after I had cooked and eaten my meal two men in camouflaged combat gear with automatic weapons and three dogs approached me.
    One spoke broken English, the other none at all. I was asked what I was doing here and I told them I was cycling to Istanbul. They were clearly suspicious and at that time seemed to me quite hostile. They talked to each other briefly, then the one who spoke English asked me “Do you know what these plants are?” I suddenly realised that the answers I would give could well determine my immediate future. I needed to gain their trust.
    I said “Yes they are marijuana plants”
    I was then asked “Do you smoke it?”
    To which I replied “Whenever I get the chance”
    I was acutely aware that this crop was worth millions and my life here and now nothing. I needed to make these know that I was no threat to them or their business.
    At this he smiled and sat down beside my tent and rolled a joint which he lit, puffed on it and passed it to me. I drew on it and inhaled deeply holding it in for a few seconds before exhaling. I repeated this once more and handed it to his friend.
    We chatted for an indeterminable amount of time before they said they had to be going.
    The English speaking man rolled another joint and gave it to me saying here is one for you for tomorrow.
    It was only at that point did I feel confident that there would be a tomorrow for me.


    Making the crossing on the ferry from Romania to Bulgaria

    The Bulgarian road signs weren’t a big help, in the end I just used my compass and rode southeast until I hit the Black Sea




    Lost in Bulgaria
  24. Sean Barker
    Izvoru (ROM) to Zimnicea (ROM)

    After a nervy night I got up at sunrise and was on the road for 6:00am.
    I made my way through “Slobozia”, “Tatarastii” and on down to “Alexandria” and then down the 51 to “Zimnicea”.
    When I reached the border I discovered that it was a ferry crossing across the Danube and there are only five sailings a day.
    So I decided to made my way back some 7km back to a pension I had passed earlier and make the crossing tomorrow as I was absolutely shattered.
  25. Sean Barker
    Corbini (ROM) to Izvoru (ROM)

    An altogether less inspiring day after the thrills of yesterday, but on the upside it was for the most part all down hill.
    I clearly have a bad gastric bug so the easier terrain was most welcome.
    I made my way along the same road until I came to the busy city of “Pitesti” whereupon I got totally disorientated and took the wrong road. On realizing I had been traveling in the wrong direction I tried to take the dirt roads to get back on track. Eventually I found my way back onto a main road (64) just outside the village of “Ionesti”. I made my south through “Zavideni”, “Dragasani”, and on into “Slatina” before getting back onto the minor roads through “Recea” and onto “Izvoru”.
    I am now well off the beaten track and in an area that could be potentially very dangerous. I had no choice but to make camp in the overgrown grounds of a ruined house. I can’t be seen from the road but I can hear the villagers as they pass by.
    I shall sleep lightly tonight.

    Dracula’s castle (or at least the castle that inspired Bram Stoker)

    Un-surfaced dirt roads made up a considerable percentage of my days down in southern Europe
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