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Sean Barker

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Blog Entries posted by Sean Barker

  1. Sean Barker
    Zimnicea (ROM) to God knows where (Bul)

    It was a late start as the ferry crossing was at 11:30am and I rode today at a gentle pace due to my delicate state.
    I’m well off my intended course and completely lost. Finding my way around this part of Bulgaria is no easy thing, all the signs are in their own unique script and impossible for me to read or pronounce. All I can really do is keep on a southeast heading until I hit either the Black Sea or Turkey.
    This evening has been nothing short of nerve-wracking.
    I stopped around 5:30 and saw an entrance leading into a field of sunflowers. I followed the edge of the field between the flowers and the hedgerow in search a more secluded spot when I came upon a large clearing and a field full of marijuana plants. I was tired and hadn’t the energy to go much further so made camp by the edge of the plantation.
    Shortly after I had cooked and eaten my meal two men in camouflaged combat gear with automatic weapons and three dogs approached me.
    One spoke broken English, the other none at all. I was asked what I was doing here and I told them I was cycling to Istanbul. They were clearly suspicious and at that time seemed to me quite hostile. They talked to each other briefly, then the one who spoke English asked me “Do you know what these plants are?” I suddenly realised that the answers I would give could well determine my immediate future. I needed to gain their trust.
    I said “Yes they are marijuana plants”
    I was then asked “Do you smoke it?”
    To which I replied “Whenever I get the chance”
    I was acutely aware that this crop was worth millions and my life here and now nothing. I needed to make these know that I was no threat to them or their business.
    At this he smiled and sat down beside my tent and rolled a joint which he lit, puffed on it and passed it to me. I drew on it and inhaled deeply holding it in for a few seconds before exhaling. I repeated this once more and handed it to his friend.
    We chatted for an indeterminable amount of time before they said they had to be going.
    The English speaking man rolled another joint and gave it to me saying here is one for you for tomorrow.
    It was only at that point did I feel confident that there would be a tomorrow for me.


    Making the crossing on the ferry from Romania to Bulgaria

    The Bulgarian road signs weren’t a big help, in the end I just used my compass and rode southeast until I hit the Black Sea




    Lost in Bulgaria
  2. Sean Barker
    Izvoru (ROM) to Zimnicea (ROM)

    After a nervy night I got up at sunrise and was on the road for 6:00am.
    I made my way through “Slobozia”, “Tatarastii” and on down to “Alexandria” and then down the 51 to “Zimnicea”.
    When I reached the border I discovered that it was a ferry crossing across the Danube and there are only five sailings a day.
    So I decided to made my way back some 7km back to a pension I had passed earlier and make the crossing tomorrow as I was absolutely shattered.
  3. Sean Barker
    Miercorea Sibiulut (ROM) to Cartisoara (ROM)

    A really tough and stressful days cycling as I made my way along the busy 1 and through the city of “Sibiu”. Then it was on to the equally busy and stressful E68 through “Bradu”, “Avrig”, “Porumbacu de jos” and on to the “Transfagarasan Highway”
    I found accommodation in the little village of “Cartisoara” where a local family have a home with a small annex that they rent for weary travellers. They invited me to join them in their evening meal where they fed me and questioned me at length on my tour so far. We ended the meal with strong liquor that they distilled themselves, I think it was from pear but it was bloody strong stuff.
    Today was hot, 35c in the shade and considerably hotter out on the road.
    Even now in the cooling evening it is still well over 30c and I find myself transfixed on the snow-capped Carpathian Mountains to the south that I will have to cross tomorrow
    I have no doubt that tomorrow will be a day that I will never forget.

    The hot Rumanian summers, probably not really conducive with long distance cycling but I soon got used to it

    The beginning of that famous road and the daunting Carpathian mountains in the distance.
  4. Sean Barker
    Abrud (ROM) to Miercurea Sibiului (ROM)

    I left "Abrud" and started the climb towards "Zlatna", through “Metes” and on into the thriving town of “Albaiulia” before taking the altogether busier 7 through “Sebes” and on into “Miercurea Sibiului” Where I checked into quite a plush hotel which cost twice as much as the place I stayed at last night but at around £20 I can live with that.

    I really thought my number was up today when on the descent into Zlatna a maniac decided to overtake three vans in a row, as he was ploughing on the other side of the road (the side I'm cycling on) all I'm looking at is certain death unless I veer of the road and hope not to go over the ravine. Fortunately the combination of the thick bed of sand that lined the ten or so inches between the road and the drop I was never going to walk away from in tandom with the tree I threw my arms around for grim life were enough to bring me to a halt
    The maniac drove on but one of the guys he overtook stoped and came back to me. He said in his broken English that that driver was "loco' mad in the head" he then went on to say "you are a very lucky man, God holds you in his hand". I did think that was a particularly poetic turn of phrase, even if I have always seen myself as a batter for the other side

    The terrible roads are taking their toll on my bike; both front racks are broken and held together with string and duct tape. They clearly need to be replaced as soon as possible.
    I’ll look in “Sibiu” tomorrow but I haven’t seen any other touring cyclists in weeks and doubt they get many (in any) in these parts.
    I may well have to take a detour towards “Sofia” in Bulgaria to have any chance of replacing broken equipment.


    A typical and charming Rumanian church with obligatory silver domes
  5. Sean Barker
    Zennet (Ned) to Wesel (D)

    After a difficult night’s sleep, (my injured arm kept waking me every time I moved) I was unaware at this time that I had a rotor cuff tear in the shoulder that wouldn't heal until I was to finish the tour and receive medical attention.
    I awoke to find that when I pitched my tent in the dead of night the previous day I had inadvertently camped in a field full of cows. They may have been on the far side of the field but for all the world they seemed to me to be standing in a line and looking at me in a disapprovingly way,
    I packed up at first light and hit the road, stopping shortly thereafter to cook up a hearty breakfast to see me through the day. I was having trouble with my cooker leaking fuel but managed to fix it with some strategically placed duct tape but to my annoyance I discovered that I somehow managed to lose my compass. A priority for today is to get a new one.
    I made my way to Wesel passing through "Kleve" "Kalkar" and "Xanten" the weather was one heavy rain shower after another all day but the long term weather forecast was rain rain and more rain for the days and weeks ahead.


    Day two and into Germany


    The charming town of Kleve
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