Chain Oil

[Sarashell]

What does everyone use to lubricate their chain. In the old days, I would use any old oil, (engine oil etc.) I have of late tried some thin chain lube, that was O K but seemed to run off (can't remember the make). I am at the moment using some Muck Off lube, which is thicker and and so makes the chain dirty quicker.

So I was wondering what everyone was using.

J.S.

[Sean Barker]

Having tried quite a few different types over the years, on the advice of someone else I tried this oil and have never looked back

 

[DaveM]

Hi John

I use two different lubes.  White Lightning Wet Ride for winter and White Lightning Clean ride in summer.  After two or three rides, depending on the conditions I spray a rag with WD40 and give the chain a good wipe and re-lube.  After a month or so I wash the chain in White Spirit and start again.

You can get White Lightning from Speeds.

I have also heard good recommendations for the one Sean uses.

[AlanW]

Having tried quite a few different types over the years, on the advice of someone else I tried this oil and have never looked back

 

 

ProLink Gold is by far the best lube that I have ever used, and is the choice of champions, so not to sure why Sean uses it?

 

A couple of tips, use the small applicator and only apply a spot to each roller and ideally lube your chain the night before hand.

 

[DaveM]

I think I am going to go to Prolink when when I next change Alan.  Heard so many good reports about it.  Where do you obtain yours from?

[AlanW]

I think I am going to go to Prolink when when I next change Alan.  Heard so many good reports about it.  Where do you obtain yours from?

Here you do Dave - HERE

 

I have the little lubricator, plus the smaller 4oz bottle and also the large 32oz bottle.  And the reason I have all three, its much cheaper to buy the 32oz bottle but its near enough impossible to fill the little lubricator from it.

 

So I fill the 4oz from the 32oz, then fill the little pen lubricator from that.  ;)

[DaveM]

Thanks Alan.  That's a much better price and easier to apply. Going for it next time.

Great stuff. 

[Sarashell]

Thanks lads very interesting stuff, there so many to chose from. that Pro Link sounds good, I think I'll give it a try.

J.S.

[AlanW]

Another point to note and just in case that you were not aware, but as is the case with all types of chain lube, to maximum the efficiently of the new lube you need to completely remove all traces of the old lubricant.

 

Ideally the best way to do this is by using a chain cleaning device (such as the Park one) and a water based degreaser.  Give the chain a really good deep cleanse with the chain cleaning device then remove the chain and wash it with hot soapy water.  Now wrap the chain in absorbent kitchen roll and put in the airing cupboard or on the radiator for a couple of hours.

 

Refit to bike and start the lubing process, you will probably need to lube your chain a couple of times to get a decent amount of lube in between the rollers and links.  So lube once and then leave for a few hours, then repeat.  Do a ride and then remove the excess from the chain with a dry cloth and finally repeat one more lube to the rollers only.

 

Easy!

[rovi]

If you change your chain often,you don,t wear sprockets and chain rings out so quickly.

I just clean the chain frequently with Duck Oil and then lube it with clean duck oil.

I must admit something a bit thicker in the winter might be better how about

ANTI FREEZE.

[Sean Barker]

Time to replenish my stocks but alas it seems to have been discontinued in the 16oz spray.

Anyone know better?

[AlanW]

Time to replenish my stocks but alas it seems to have been discontinued in the 16oz spray.

Anyone know better?

 

HERE

 

But it is expensive!

 

EDIT

This is a much better price HERE

 

EDIT II

 

HERE

[Sean Barker]

Cheers Alan

 

Just ordered a couple of 16oz bottles, should keep me going for a while

[Mrs DAVIES]

Citrus Degreaser, Park Tools chain scrubber, toothbrush. Degrease, soak whilst I have a coffee, repeat.

Wash off warm water & Muck Off.

Dry indoors overnight.

Wet ride, each link, turn pedal each time I walk past. Repeat.

TRF2 tight spots, cables, inside brake hoods etc. grease sprigs on SPD.

Tutorial from bike shop mechanic after they got fed up of me bringing my bike for service with thick dirty oil everywhere.

Put away.

Night before ride. Wipe off excess.

[Sean Barker]

Don’t mention Citrus Degreasers in Alan’s presence. You have no idea what a monster you could awaken!  

[Mrs DAVIES]

Oops

[AlanW]

Don’t mention Citrus Degreasers in Alan’s presence. You have no idea what a monster you could awaken!

 

Degreaser is okay as long as it kept well away from the bike!  So, remove chain and clean in degreaser, wash down in hot soapy water, wrap in Kleenex tissue, place in airing cupboard to dry.  Refit to bike, lube at least 12 hours before you intend to ride.  Do one ride and relube it, only one drop per link, no more, then finally wipe of the excess.

 

Using degreaser on a bike will only serve to remove the grease from the jockey wheels, the rear mech bushes and pivot points and allow it to seep into the bearings on the bottom bracket, plus the rear wheel bearings.  Even if you have sealed bearings the evil stuff will still find a way in........

[DaveM]

I notice that you wash, dry and air the chain. I take it this is the non-iron variety!  :rofl

[AlanW]

I notice that you wash, dry and air the chain. I take it this is the non-iron variety!  :rofl

 

The doors over there... :nana

[Mrs DAVIES]

Degreaser is okay as long as it kept well away from the bike! So, remove chain and clean in degreaser, wash down in hot soapy water, wrap in Kleenex tissue, place in airing cupboard to dry. Refit to bike, lube at least 12 hours before you intend to ride. Do one ride and relube it, only one drop per link, no more, then finally wipe of the excess.

Using degreaser on a bike will only serve to remove the grease from the jockey wheels, the rear mech bushes and pivot points and allow it to seep into the bearings on the bottom bracket, plus the rear wheel bearings. Even if you have sealed bearings the evil stuff will still find a way in........

[Mrs DAVIES]

As I don't know how to remove / refit a chain, which degreaser should I use?

[AlanW]

As I don't know how to remove / refit a chain, which degreaser should I use?

 

Have you not got a 'Quick Link' fitted?  If not then I would maybe suggest that you get one fitted, plus always carry one as a spare, especially true if you run 10sp drive train.

 

But in truth, the worst that you can do is degrease a chain, as you will never properly lubricate the inner rollers like they do when the chain is assembled.  IMHO chains should not be degreased on a regular basis, but I do accept that there are, on occasions, the need to do it.

 

However, a major factor also depends on what the type of chain lube you use.  So if for example you utilize Pro Link Gold, then a quick wipe over with a cloth with some WD40 or GT85 applied to it will more than suffice.  But if you use a 'wet weather' type lube or if you are very old school 3:1 oil (!!!) , then because of its very nature you would have to clean the chain more thoroughly, and probably degrease it.

[Mrs DAVIES]

Not sure about whether there is a quick link fitted. Probably is on the 10Speed. However I have chain repair kits for both in the saddle bags. Ive never had to use one. I keep the instructions with them. Assume, when it happens I'll have to follow the instructions.

 

I always thought you tried to keep the manufacturers oil as long as possible. Then the shop told me, no, get it off ASAP and get a decent lubricant on it.

 

Whats WD40? Same as TRF2?

 

Use wet ride in Winter.

[AlanW]

Not sure about whether there is a quick link fitted. Probably is on the 10Speed. However I have chain repair kits for both in the saddle bags. Ive never had to use one. I keep the instructions with them. Assume, when it happens I'll have to follow the instructions.

 

I always thought you tried to keep the manufacturers oil as long as possible. Then the shop told me, no, get it off ASAP and get a decent lubricant on it.

 

Whats WD40? Same as TRF2?

 

Use wet ride in Winter.

 

If a shop has fitted your chain, then there probably will not be a quick link fitted to it, but look on your chain it will look something like this?

I would also suggest that you dont wait till your chain breaks out on the road to understand how to fit it, practise fitting one in the garage first.  The chances are that if and when you do break a chain, it will be cold and raining and you'll be at the end of a long ride.  This certainly isn't the time to start learning how to do something!

 

Personally, I keep the manufacturers lubrication on for as long as possible, for the reasons that I mentioned before.  I certainly don't like "wet lube" type lubricants for a couple of reasons :- 1) They are to far viscous therefore it doesn't seep into the rollers like a thin based lubricant will. 2) By its very nature it attracts all the winter crud, so therefore becomes nothing more than a grinding paste!  Trust me, nothing will kill your cassette, chain, chain rings and your plastic jockey wheels any quicker.

 

You have never heard of WD40, one of the most famous brands in the world............

[Sean Barker]

Brings to mind the;