Sean Barker Posted October 2, 2014 Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 Not all wheels have wear indicator grooves, certainly not the Mavic Open Pros that I tend to favour. I do keep a close eye on the concaved wearing into the rim but is there a more scientific way to know when they are no longer structurally sound? A tool perhaps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyS Posted October 2, 2014 Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 A micrometer tool is only useful if you know what the starting rim thickness was and what the minimum safety thickness is. If there's no wear indicator then I'd always go with the finger test - if it feels too concave and very ribbed then it's past time. Always err on the safe side, an exploding rim can result at best in a long walk home and at worst a trip in an ambulance. Also always always wash and clean your rims and brake blocks after every wet or muddy ride, not only does it extend their life you also do the regular check and get a better feel for wear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveM Posted October 2, 2014 Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 Where's Alan Weaver when you need him? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Barker Posted October 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrs DAVIES Posted October 2, 2014 Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 Chris Pardoe has some special brake blocks that sweep muck away from the rims. He promised me some! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyS Posted October 2, 2014 Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 More to the point, who needs Alan Weaver? I heard a rumour that Alan had a tendon injury, hope he's ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rovi Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Google it ? (Wow never thought i'd get one up on Sean) I seem to remember an article in a CTC magazine, 0.039" seems to ring a bell as a min. thickness. 2-short bits of spoke and a 1" micrometer provided a challenge until I used a spot of grease to hold the bits of spoke in position. Well it will probabally be raining next week if you are looking for something to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanW Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Here I am......... I tool for everything - HERE Another way to measure braking surface is with the tyre removed using a micrometer or digital vernier gauge,use two short pieces of old spoke (2mm thick) either side of the braking surface,one inside the rim (where the tyre fits) and one on the braking surface (in the concave) then measure the thickness of the two spokes with the braking surface sandwiched in-between, deduct the 4mm (thickness of two spoke pieces) the amount left is braking surface thickness. And yes I am suffering from sub-acute peroneal tendonitis in my left ankle. I've had it for a number of weeks, but while it was uncomfortable it was sort of manageable. However, I appear to have caused it more harm than good, story of my life!! So I am now on a complete bike ban and it will be two weeks this Sunday since I last rode!! But on the good news I've been given the go ahead to do some steady turbo work, but strictly NO riding on the road for at least another week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyS Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Too many miles and not enough stretching, Alan As for the gauge, when you're talking today's thin rims and high pressure folding clinchers, I suspect the measurement error outweighs the false feeling of security given to those folk who like to use equipment to the limit. Best to be on the safe side and, if in doubt, replace. A bit like see through shorts really Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.