Sean Barker

Miercorea Sibiulut (ROM) to Cartisoara (ROM) A really tough and stressful days cycling as I made my way along the busy 1 and through the city of “Sibiu”. Then it was on to the equally busy and stressful E68 through “Bradu”, “Avrig”, “Porumbacu de jos” and on to the “Transfagarasan Highway” I found accommodation in the little village of “Cartisoara” where a local family have a home with a small annex that they rent for weary travellers. They invited me to join them in their evening meal where they fed me and questioned me at length on my tour so far. We ended the meal with strong liquor that they distilled themselves, I think it was from pear but it was bloody strong stuff. Today was hot, 35c in the shade and considerably hotter out on the road. Even now in the cooling evening it is still well over 30c and I find myself transfixed on the snow-capped Carpathian Mountains to the south that I will have to cross tomorrow I have no doubt that tomorrow will be a day that I will never forget. The hot Rumanian summers, probably not really conducive with long distance cycling but I soon got used to it The beginning of that famous road and the daunting Carpathian mountains in the distance.

Abrud (ROM) to Miercurea Sibiului (ROM) I left "Abrud" and started the climb towards "Zlatna", through “Metes” and on into the thriving town of “Albaiulia” before taking the altogether busier 7 through “Sebes” and on into “Miercurea Sibiului” Where I checked into quite a plush hotel which cost twice as much as the place I stayed at last night but at around £20 I can live with that. I really thought my number was up today when on the descent into Zlatna a maniac decided to overtake three vans in a row, as he was ploughing on the other side of the road (the side I'm cycling on) all I'm looking at is certain death unless I veer of the road and hope not to go over the ravine. Fortunately the combination of the thick bed of sand that lined the ten or so inches between the road and the drop I was never going to walk away from in tandom with the tree I threw my arms around for grim life were enough to bring me to a halt The maniac drove on but one of the guys he overtook stoped and came back to me. He said in his broken English that that driver was "loco' mad in the head" he then went on to say "you are a very lucky man, God holds you in his hand". I did think that was a particularly poetic turn of phrase, even if I have always seen myself as a batter for the other side The terrible roads are taking their toll on my bike; both front racks are broken and held together with string and duct tape. They clearly need to be replaced as soon as possible. I’ll look in “Sibiu” tomorrow but I haven’t seen any other touring cyclists in weeks and doubt they get many (in any) in these parts. I may well have to take a detour towards “Sofia” in Bulgaria to have any chance of replacing broken equipment. A typical and charming Rumanian church with obligatory silver domes

Beius (ROM) to Abrud (ROM) Today was the toughest stage so far but by far the most spectacular. I made my way from “Beius down the busy E79 to “Lunca” where I took the 75 and was soon to face my first real mountain climb of the tour. In a mere 20km I climbed 1000m but the descent was through some stunning countryside as I followed the course of the river through the ski resort of “Vartop” and some lovely villages such as “Izlaz”, “Arieseni”, “Raul Valcea” “Ursoaia”, “Vadu Motilor”, the thriving town of “Campeni” and on to “Abrud”. It was 35c at the bottom of the climb and only slightly cooler at the summit. As tough as today was I am fully aware that the big climbs are in a couple of days time. Making my way across the Transylvanian mountains The charming village or Vartop

Sarkad (H) to Beius (ROM) Today was the hottest day yet at 38c. With no cloud cover, covering up was the order of the day. I wore the desert scarf which has turned out to be an inspired purchase. I made my way across the border and into the busy town of “Salonta” and then through “Tulca”, “Tinca”, “Soimi” and on to the busy town of “Beius” where on spotting a pension and the heat sapping my strength I decided to call it a day. The woman who ran the establishment asked where I’d cycled from and when I told her England she called out for all the staff to witness my tale. She later went on to tell me that they had never had a touring cyclist stay here before. This pension also runs a popular restaurant with a large stone oven where pizza’s are cooked to order. I enjoyed a large one and a couple of bottles of surprisingly good Romanian lager before heading to bed for an early night and a bed, something I hadn’t enjoyed since back in the Czech Republic which seemed so long ago. Desperately trying to protect myself from the oppressive sun in those early days

Biharnagybajom (H) to Sarkad (H) Another frustrating day, inasmuch as I made my way to the road on my GPS route only to find that it was also closed to bicycles. There was nothing for it but to retrace my steps some 16km in the stifling heat that was now up to 35c in search of another route. Through the back roads and cratered lanes I made my way through “Zsaka”, “Furta”, “Komadi”, “Zsadany” and on to “Sarkad” I must admit to feeling somewhat apprehensive about entering Romania after hearing some of the things people have had to say to me today. But what the Hell I’m not one for quitting.

Tiszasuly (H) to Biharnagybajom (H) Another rain free day but boy was it hot! It was 32c out on the road and keeping hydrated was the order of the day, it is now quite noticeable how much more fluid I am taking on board. I followed my GPS course through “Kunhegyes”and on to “Karcag”, where I hit the E60 motorway and couldn’t go any further by bike, so I followed my compass in the hope of picking up a road taking a favourable direction. After spending the late afternoon and evening totally lost I found myself in the village of “Biharnagybajom” and made camp in the forest just beyond. I’m hoping to pick up my intended route sometime tomorrow

Galgaguta (H) to Tiszasuly (H) A rain free day! Only my second one so far but it felt so good to be out of the rain gear and feel the sun on my back. I left "Galgaguta" and made my way through “Acsa”, “Erdokurt”, “Kallo”, “Versea”, “Hatvan”, “Jaszbereny” and on to “Tiszasuly” The minor roads here in Hungary are appalling, they actually look like they have been bombed at times. I just hope my bike holds out. It feels strange navigating with my GPS alone, as without maps I’m not quite sure where in the country I am.

Demandice (SL) to Galgaguta (H) Gone was the heavy rain of yesterday, just showers and a light constant drizzle. Because of the rain this morning and the quiet secluded spot I found to camp in, I didn't set off until 11:00am. I really struggled today in the damp, warm and muggy conditions. I followed the GPS route but was never really sure where I was but it was uplifting to cross the border into Hungary Crossing into Hungary

Spacince (SL) to Demandice (SL) I awoke at dawn after a dry night to see storm clouds gathering, so I packed up sharpish and just in time as the rain started no sooner than I hit the road. I set off happy in the knowledge that my tent and equipment were packed away dry. This was probably the least attractive stage so far as I stuck to the route on my GPS. The course shadowed the motorway and passed through a few industrial towns. The rain today had to be seen to be believed! As I cycled up and out of "Nitra" the water was coming down the road like a river. Large sections of today's stage were on busy roads and clearly the Slovaks are not used to cyclists as far too many of them sped past me at high speed with mere centimetres clearance. It was a stressful day at times as I wobbled and struggled for control in the driving rain as the cars whizzed by. The northern arm of the Carpathian mountain range that I would cross in torrential rain Taking some shelter from the rain

Staatz (Aus) to Spacince (SL) A day of contrasts. The first half of the day saw dark skies and rain, then later in the afternoon it brightened up and the rain cleared, there were even glimpses of blue sky, something I hadn't seen in a while. An early start saw me pass through “Poysdorf”, “Wetzeldorf”, “Altlichtenwarth” and “Hohenau an der March” before crossing the border and into Slovakia. Once into Slovakia I made my way through “Moravsky Svaty Jan”, “Zavod”, “Tomkey”, “Laksarska Nova Ves”, “Trisin”, “Dolne Dubove” and into Spacince” where I found a little copse hidden away behind a hill where I made camp for the night Crossing into Slovakia

Kunzac (CZ) to Staats (Aus) Fed, dry and rested I headed out into the rain under dark foreboding skies. I cycled hard all day stopping only once for twenty minutes under a children’s play shelter to cook some hot food. Over every hill I hoped to see clear skies but twas never to be. I made my way through “Decice”, and “Jemince”. Then stayed on the 408 all the way to “Hevlin” before crossing the border into Austria and into the border town of “Laa an der Thaya”. I then cycled into “Staatz” dominated by a castle ruins atop a hill. Just a kilometre further on but in sight of the castle I pitched my tent beside a hedgerow before the thunder and lightning both roared and lit up the sky above me. Surely this weather has to change! Crossing into Austria Making camp within sight of the ruins of an Austrian castle

Becice (CZ) to Kunzak (CZ) I was greatly relieved that my tent survived the storm last night and that a tree hadn't come down on me but I was soaked during the night. The rain was still coming down heavy when I awoke and no sign of it letting up. I knew I had to go out in it as I was out of food and with tomorrow being Sunday I had to stock up today. There was nothing for it, I had to move on. I tried to care for my feet as best I could. There were large chunks of dead white flesh coming off them and I was missing five toenails, I am genuinely concerned that I am getting trench foot, I cleaned them and bandaged them up before I packed up everything in the pouring rain and was in no doubt I couldn't get any wetter. Today was brutally tough, the rain never let up for a moment, I was cold and soaked through, my shoulder hurt my feet hurt and I really struggled to keep mentally right. My tent and sleeping bag were wet and my priority was to find accommodation if possible and dry everything out, as well as stocking up on food. I cycled through loads of little villages and the towns of " “Veseli nad Luznici”, and the sizable “Jindrichuv Hradec”. I continued east until I came to the village of “Kunzac” where I found a pension and some respite from this sufferance. The pension was owned and run by a delightful couple who were fascinated by what I had achieved and what I yet intended to do. They invited me to their private quarters to dine with them where we discussed my cycling tours before moving onto their true passion “Music” where we discussed our favourite works by D’vorak, Chopin and Mozart before amazingly moving onto Bluegrass where the owner played banjo in a local Bluegrass band. We continued to chat while they introduced me to one Czech beer after another and then a local spirit distilled from plums. I feel a little tipsy now as I write this account of the day but I think I’ll sleep well tonight.

Lnare (CZ) to Becice (CZ) Today I travelled along the quieter roads and national cycle routes (although they just follow the quieter roads with off road sections) I made my way through “Blatna”, “Skvoretice”, “Lom”, “Mirotice”, “Cerhonice”, “Ostrovec”, “Varvazov”, “Zvikovske Podhradi”. “Oslov”, “Vlastec”, Then onto the 138 through “Zahori”, “Albrechtice nad Vltavou”. Then onto the 159 through “Neznasov and onto the surprisingly large “Tyn nad Vitavou” before making my way onto the 147 to “Becice”. From the west I could see a large storm rapidly closing in on me so I heading for a small woods where I quickly erected my tent and got everything inside mere moments before being buffeted and shaken violently as the storm passed by. This was the most violent storm I had experienced since being caught in the open tundra of the Arctic some two years before and I knew from experience to get all the weight of my equipment around the edges of the groundsheet to prevent the gale getting under the groundsheet and lifting up the tent pegs. The storm soon passed much to my relief but the heavy rain that is now hammering my tent looks like being here for some time. A typical charming Czech town nestled in the forest atop a hill

Stribro (CZ) to Lnare (CZ) Maybe Freud was right "The Irish are beyond psychoanalysis" But the question remains “Why do I do this to myself?” Perhaps it’s my guilty past and some messed up belief that the only path to redemption is purification through pain. My catholic upbringing at the hands of Jesuit priests and Christian brothers has a lot to answer for! Whatever here I am again living in my self-imposed hell! These are dark days and these are the times that will test me. I have to stay strong and focused now. I know that better days lie ahead I have to hold on to that. Today was a frustrating day. I got completely lost trying to get out of “Pizen”and actually ended up on a mountain bike path with narrow paths and sheer drops to the side. After a 25km circle of hard going terrain I finally ended back where I started in “Pizen” However I met with a couple of local mountain bikers who were amazed that I had got around the loop on my loaded touring bike. When I explained that it was not by design and that I was lost, they kindly escorted me some 10km out of their way to put me on the right route again. Despite the threat of heavy rain today only saw light showers. Today was a long day in the saddle but relatively little progress to show for it. On the upside however I got a good map that will guide me over the next week or so.

Hohenberg (D) to Stribro (CZ) Sitting in my tent with the rain pelting the roof, this the ninth day of my tour and it has rained on eight of them! I crossed the border this morning and made my way into "Cheb" and then through "Lazne Kynzvart" then onto the "230" at "Plana" to "Stribro" where I made camp in the woods. I must admit I'm exhausted and my spirits are low. I am genuinely concerned that I have bitten off more than I can chew. I have never suffered so much so early into a tour before. Not being able to sleep properly at night due to my injured shoulder and painful feet is really taking its toll on me Crossing into the Czech Republic

Bad Lobenstien (D) to Hohenberg (D) The heavy rain that had started as I was erecting my tent last night had continued unabated throughout the night and well beyond the morning. Alas my tent had flooded during the night and I and everything in it was soaked. I managed to air it out during a dry patch in the afternoon and it is now damp rather than wet. Today was cold, bitterly cold! I struggled to use my hands and shivered uncontrollably in the cold of the early day. Again I was getting bogged down on these forest cycle paths and decided to go in search of roads and easier passage. Through the trees I could hear traffic and made my way over the hills through the densely forested terrain in as straight a line as possible until I came upon the road I could hear. It was a fairly busy road but was to my eyes a duel carriageway. I pushed my bike onto the road and headed south east. No more than five km down the road I was joined by a "Bundespolizei" car (Germany's federal police force) and instructed to pull in to the side of the road. I was told that it is illegal to cycle on this road as it was the Autobahn. Embarrassed and concerned that I was in trouble I explained how I had been on the cycle paths in the forest but couldn't cope with the mud and had joined the Autobahn a few kilometres northwest unaware of what it was. The two officers (A male and a female) were most sympathetic and as we chatted about my weeks cycling and of how I planned to cycle to Istanbul and back. They pulled out an electronic tablet and showed me the best and safest way to proceed. They informed me that if I made my way to "Selb" I would find altogether safer and more appropriate cycle paths going in my intended direction. I was then told that the best thing to do would be to cycle some 10km further on where there was an exit that would put me back on course and that they would follow behind me to keep me safe. I cycled on with the police car some twenty meters back with lights a flashing and every car that either passed us or came from the other direction looked in my direction and no doubt thought I must have been someone of importance to warrant such support. When we reached the exit the two officers gave me a printout of the route to get me to where I needed to go and shook my hand wishing me good luck and safe passage as I crossed the continent.Having already made my way through "Gefell", "Topen", "Hof", and "Rehau" I continued on through "Selb" and on to "Hohenberg" I am now on the border and in sight of the Czech Republic After spending most of the last week wet I feel my strength is waning. My feet are in a poor state, covered in dead colourless and peeling flesh they are bleeding from the soles and heels. I have lost two toenails and two more are clearly not going to last much longer I shall let the air get to them tonight and bandage them up for tomorrow An eventful day that will live with me forever

Ilmenau (D) to Bad Lobenstien (D) The torrential rain forecast didn't materialise but it was overcast and showers all day with the showers getting heavier and more prolonged later into the day. Today was tough going on the bicycle paths, the recent rains had left them deep mud in parts and in no way suitable for a loaded touring bike, they were really only mountain bike paths at the best of times. After getting stuck one too many times and having to push my bike through ankle deep mud. I decided to go off route in search of a better surface. My new route saw me passing through "Saafeld" and staying on the "90" to "Bad Lobenstien" I think this bad weather system is coming from the east so by riding into it hopefully I'll come out the other side all the sooner. One big positive today is that I managed to buy a new compass in "Saafeld" The many kilometres of cycle paths that run through the forests of Germany

Walterhausen (D) to Ilmenau (D) It rained hard during the night and into the morning. It was 11:30am before I packed up a soaking wet tent and braved the weather. After a few hours of cycling through the cold storm shivering and miserable, I happened upon a small village just south of Ilmenau and spied a pension. With no chance of getting my tent dry today I saw this as the ideal opportunity to get everything dry, wash my dirty clothes and charge all my appliances. As I write this my tent is hanging over the bathroom door and all my clothes are drying on the radiator and all devices are recharging. I'll get breakfast here in the morning and then ride through the rain all day comforted in the knowledge that everything is packed away dry.

Kassel (D) to Walterhausen (D) A beautiful day with no rain! I even had the chance to dry out some of my equipment including my tent and sleeping bag. I started off on route but was soon forced to take the cycle path route that passed through all the charming villages. Unfortunately I went somewhat off course and spent a large part of the day lost (something I would do in no small measure as the tour progressed). I eventually made my way to "Sontra" before getting back to "Eisnach" and then back on course to Walterhausen Deep into Germany and the start of the climbs

Overhausen (D) to Kassel (D) The rain never let up today, so that's 48 hours I've been soaked through and I'm starting to look like a human prune. I spent the day (as yesterday) on quiet forest roads and cycle paths and later roads but with the German drivers so courteous and considerate sharing the road with them is a pleasure. I made camp in the forest just north of Kassel. Soaked through and in a wet tent and sleeping bag I dreamt of drier days.

Wesel (D) to Overhausen (D) After a morning of light showers the hard rain came down with a vengeance in the afternoon as the skies darkened and I spent the day soaked through to the skin. I made my way through the rain and passed through a plethora of small villages and towns such as "Selm, "Werne and "Hamm" before eventually worn out I hurriedly erected my tent in the woods while being buffeted by the rain. It was to be an uneasy sleep both damp and cold

Zennet (Ned) to Wesel (D) After a difficult night’s sleep, (my injured arm kept waking me every time I moved) I was unaware at this time that I had a rotor cuff tear in the shoulder that wouldn't heal until I was to finish the tour and receive medical attention. I awoke to find that when I pitched my tent in the dead of night the previous day I had inadvertently camped in a field full of cows. They may have been on the far side of the field but for all the world they seemed to me to be standing in a line and looking at me in a disapprovingly way, I packed up at first light and hit the road, stopping shortly thereafter to cook up a hearty breakfast to see me through the day. I was having trouble with my cooker leaking fuel but managed to fix it with some strategically placed duct tape but to my annoyance I discovered that I somehow managed to lose my compass. A priority for today is to get a new one. I made my way to Wesel passing through "Kleve" "Kalkar" and "Xanten" the weather was one heavy rain shower after another all day but the long term weather forecast was rain rain and more rain for the days and weeks ahead. Day two and into Germany The charming town of Kleve

Hook Of Holland to Zennet (Ned) After an uneventful journey to the start at the Hook I made my way east circumnavigating Rotterdam and passing through the beautiful Kinderdijk with its multitude of windmills. I felt quite emotional cycling this stretch as I covered the ground that I had cycled with my daughter when we did a tour of the Netherlands together some seven years before. Following the river Lek it soon became apparent that my GPS was not picking up the satellites and consequently the roads and measuring distance properly which was a concern considering some of the remote places I was to cover on this tour. Fortunately I had my trusty compass and maps of the Netherlands and Germany; clearly I was going to have to pick maps up along the way. I did feel strange being back on the road again, cycling on the right, it somehow felt as if I was home again The ferry across to the Kinderdijk The stunning Kinderdijk, perhaps my favourite place in the Netherlands Another of the Kinderdijk

I was pretty sure that this would be my last tour so I wanted to go out with something special. This would be my sixth major tour in as many years. I knew I was well prepared and experienced but I was also aware that with traveling solo so far off the beaten track both triumphs and disasters lay ahead. All the entries you will read are taken directly from my diary that was written at the end of each day before going to sleep. They are for the most part an account of the route I had taken that day and my state of mind